Great Plains - Next Level Safari

Great Plains - Next Level Safari

I am lucky to have been on safari. I am very lucky to have been on safari many times. And I am now unbelievably lucky to have been on safari in Kenya with Great Plains Conservation.

Great Plains was created by the renowned and award-winning wildlife filmmakers and conservationists Dereck and Beverly Joubert, who have been filming and exploring Africa for over 40 years. Beginning in Botswana, their operations have extended through Zimbabwe and Kenya to now encompass a magnificent collection of 14 camps and lodges, each of which has been individually designed and decorated to offer the safari guest an extraordinary experience.

It was therefore with unusually high levels of excitement, (terrible though it may sound, I occasionally struggle to get inspired by the thought of going on another safari), that I set off recently for Kenya to spend a few days with Great Plains in the very famous Masai Mara. After the almost obligatory overnight stay on arrival in Nairobi – the Crowne Plaza at the airport is an excellent option just a 5-minute drive from the arrivals terminal – it was off to the smaller domestic Wilson airport for the Safarilink flight across to the Masai Mara. Things can get a little ‘busy’ at Wilson so it is always sensible to allow Africa Travel to make all the arrangements for you, with somebody holding your proverbial hand as you navigate the traffic and check-in procedures in Nairobi.

Mara Nyika Camp

After a short and uneventful flight I arrived at the Ol Seki airstrip in the Naboisho Conservancy to be met by Samson, who was going to be my guide throughout my stay at Mara Nyika Camp. This first stop has just 4x ‘standard’ Suites, 1x 2-bedroom Family Suite and the private Sambuk Suite, and it soon became obvious that the word standard was wholly inappropriate – each suite was over 1000 sq ft in size, and was divided into three parts consisting of a private lounge, large bedroom and separate en-suite bathroom. I have rented smaller spaces. The accommodation was tented only in so much as the walls were canvas and the entrance had a zip opening, but this was as far from being a tent as was possible, with wooden floors, leather sofas and beautiful light fittings.

What also became very apparent was the attention to detail which Great Plains have gone to to ensure that their offerings are genuinely unrivalled within the safari industry. On the large outdoor deck, (which of course had a stunning view of the plain in front), was an exercise bike, and inside were dumbbells and a yoga mat. In-room massages were available and the WiFi was better than in many parts of the UK. On the immensely comfortable bed were memory foam pillows and cotton sheets with the finest thread count, and these would be joined after dark by the fluffiest of hot water bottles. A beautiful copper bath stood in the corner of the bathroom, (a hand-drawn bubble bath would await me following that afternoon’s game drive), and in the lounge sat a pair of hi-spec binoculars and an even higher-spec professional camera, which I valued very roughly at USD$8000.



These are provided for all guests to use, and are a real game-changer. The airlines which fly you to and from game reserves spend a lot of time highlighting just how little luggage you are allowed to carry with you – the norm is 15kgs per person, to include your hand luggage, which all has to be packed into soft bags. This doesn’t leave much room to lug fancy camera equipment around with you so this innovative initiative changes everything. ‘My’ camera, with its spectacularly long lens and very easy-to-use functionality, became the envy of many of the people we passed in other lodges’ safari vehicles, and it turned my resulting photographs from things which would normally be quickly flicked through by disinterested relatives into images which would look great blown up and mounted in a large frame on the wall. You use the camera during your stay, then hand it over to the staff and get a dongle in return – a simple but superb idea.

Mara Nyika is a proud member of Relais & Chateaux and it clearly shows. Safari is often a cycle of wake, eat, game drive, eat, game drive, eat, sleep & repeat, so food is an important part of any stay, and here chef Dominic has nailed it. The food was extraordinary, worthy of any high-class eatery, with superb salads, adventurous meat & fish dishes, and wonderful deserts on the daily changing menu, and a lighter Supper Menu available for those in search of something more snacky. The food was supported by a full bar, an extraordinary wine collection, and a barman, Simon, who knew how to create the perfect Aperol Spritz. All this was expertly overseen by camp manager Mambo.



This luxury is fine, but what about the wildlife I hear you say; after all, people don’t come to the Masai Mara to just eat, sit in copper bathtubs and luxuriate in impeccable surroundings. Well the game viewing was on a different, very special level. Although not guaranteed, Great Plains’ guests who do not find themselves in their own private safari vehicle, in the very capable hands of their own supremely qualified guide can count themselves desperately unlucky - this level of privacy became the norm across the three camps I was fortunate enough to stay in. Having your very own guide and game-viewing vehicle should never be undervalued – it allows your guide to really tailor your day to suit your wishes; you can go on a game drive when you want to, have breakfast out in the wild, stay out in the bush as long as you fancy, (the camp’s record for a game drive is 16 hours!) or spend an extra half an hour watching the cheetahs without having to endure the grumbles of your fellow passengers who may want to return to camp.

I saw lions, plenty of them, cheetahs hunting, and a leopard dragging its kill up a tree, and then returning the next day to drag it back down again. There were also herds of elephants, wildebeest, hyena, pods of stinking hippos, zebra, giraffe and birds galore, all in great numbers. During the many game drives on my trip, (amazingly for me, I only missed one – which was due to an early start for a hot air balloon ride), I saw at least two of lion, leopard & cheetah on every single outing. Mara Nyika claim that the area has the greatest concentration of big cats anywhere in Africa, and it is very hard to dispute this. Some lodges keep records of the sightings which their guests have luckily spotted each day, (I recall seeing an entry somewhere which just showed a single elephant and a couple of zebra), but here it just isn’t necessary - everyone sees everything.

Mara Plains Camp

From such a remarkable start, it was off to Mara Plains Camp, just an hour away in the neighbouring Olare Motorogi Conservancy. Another small beauty – only 5x Safari Suites, plus a 2-bedroom Family Suite and the private Jahazi Suite, it is also able to offer lucky guests safari drives in the Mara North Conservancy as well as the Masai Mara National Reserve, the most famous of all Game Reserves. Here the Suites are comprised of one enormous, open-plan room which moves seamlessly from lounge area to bedroom to bathroom. The same luxury touches apply – superb bedding, exercise bike, copper bath, use of a professional camera, etc – with the private deck again looking out over the plain in front.

The game drives, this time in the expert company of Kevin, (plus hot water bottles, blankets and homemade scotch egg sundowner snacks), were as brilliant as they were at Mara Nyika – a pride of lion hunting just minutes away from the camp, multiple sightings of cheetahs & leopards, with the camp beautifully run by Charles and Dee and their band of merry helpers. Nelson surprised me with a bubble bath & champagne one evening, and Sammie managed to ensure that each superb meal was enjoyed from a different location around the camp – in the wine cellar, the dining room or under the stars on the front lawn.

Mara Toto Camp

In the name of research(!) my final stop on this incredible journey was at Mara Toto Tree Camp, a quick 10-minute drive away. This is the latest jewel in Great Plains’ shining crown, and is a re-invention of an old, more basic camp, now with just 4x Suites set up high amongst the tree canopy. My arrival was greeted by a line-up of staff performing a welcome song and dance. Very often these can appear to be a little contrived and are awkward for both sides, but not this time – it was obvious that the staff got on well with each other and that they were having fun regardless. The close-knit nature of the team, led by the energetic manager Douglas, became very evident during my stay and ensured a slick operation.

The very large Tented Suites, (complete with crafted Zanzibar-style front doors!), were immaculately designed and divided into a lounge area, bedroom and bathroom. All of the aforementioned luxuries were once again in place - this time it was Vincent who had the honour(!) of drawing me a bath - and, being close to Mara Plains, the same game-viewing areas could be accessed for safari.



By now I was becoming very accustomed to the highest levels of private safari available anywhere in Africa, but the staff at Mara Toto managed to crank things up to even higher levels of superb.

One morning on our game drive our guide Frank turned the corner to reveal a bush breakfast set up under an iconic lone tree, literally in the middle of nowhere, where champagne, yoghurts, fruit and cereals were followed by a freshly cooked, hot breakfast, (the staff had lugged pots, pans & a grill out into the bush). It was one of those pinch-me moments.

On one of the evenings dinner was served in the interactive bush kitchen, (which rivalled any found in a ‘proper restaurant’), which gave me the chance to really bond with chef Fred and his team, and to enjoy their wonderful offerings in unique surroundings. Needless to say, I could eat where, and whenever I wanted, with the food as good as I have ever tasted on safari.



The game viewing remained superb – lion, cheetah, leopard, etc - and the advantage of the property’s location became very clear late one afternoon. Unlike in the private conservancies, where a limit of five vehicles per spotting is strictly enforced, out in the Masai Mara National Reserve sightings can get a little fraught as no rules apply and hordes of day-tripping visitors vie for the best animal-spotting positions. At approximately 17h30 Frank had spotted a couple of cheetahs enjoying a siesta, but within 10 minutes we were joined by a collection of over 40 other safari vehicles, (I lost count). Knowing that the Reserve was closing its doors in the next hour, and that all the day visitors would soon have to head for the exit gates, Frank sat tight and we watched as each and every vehicle duly departed, leaving us alone again, just in time for a family of lions, with two cubs in tow, to appear on the scene and entertain us exclusively until the sun finally set and we returned the short distance back to camp. Such experiences are rarely available on safari, but with Great Plains they become the norm.

On the leisurely journey from the camp to the nearby Ol Kiombo airstrip for my flight back to Wilson airport our guide, the wise old sage Sammy, made a slight detour so that I could spend a final few minutes in the company of a couple of cheetah whom we had seen devouring a gazelle the previous evening. An airport transfer will never be the same again.

Arriving at Wilson my pre-arranged driver whisked me off to have a spot of lunch at the Talisman Restaurant before continuing onward to the main Nairobi international airport for my flight back to reality.

In conclusion

It had felt like an absolute honour, a privilege even, to have been offered the opportunity to stay in Kenya, the original home of safari, at such remarkable safari properties. I have to say that my safari experience with Great Plains was probably the best that I have ever had, (which is saying something from a wizened old safari veteran like myself). It was also very refreshing to note that all the guides, and most of the camp staff, at all three of the lodges were Masai-born and bred, and proud to show off their culture, surrounds and heritage. Very often South African or Zimbabweans are parachuted into foreign climes to guide guests on safari, but not here.

If I had any criticisms, they would be first world problems – it would have been nice to have had a quick dip in a swimming pool, (only the Family Suites at Mara Nyika & Mara Plains have pools), but I had to make do with outdoor showers instead, and I would avoid staying in Tent 7 at Mara Plains – the smell there was quite ‘fruity’ due to the hippos which bathed in the pools below.

Yes it is undoubtedly very expensive to stay with Great Plains, (in low season Mara Plains costs GBP1,100.00 per person per night), but you really do get what you pay for, plus some. Plus some more.